EDUCATION

There are gemstones in almost every color in the rainbow and many are enhanced to improve their color and quality. These common enhancements are permanent and standard in the jewelry industry. The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) provides the enhancement codes for the jewelry industry. Gemstones are also graded for hardness using the Mohs' scale. It is important to know about your gemstones so that you can care for them properly. Below is a list of gemstones, their hardness, common treatments and instructions for the care of each.

Stone	Hardness	Treatment	Care Instructions
Agate	6.5-7	None	Normal Care- (Use warm water and mild soap. Rinse. Polish with a soft cloth.) (May use Steam or Ultrasonic Cleaner)
Alexandrite	8.5	None	Normal Care (See Above)
Amber	2-2.5	Sometimes: Heat Treated or Dyed	No Chemicals, Steam or Ultrasonic Cleaners
Amethyst	7	Usually Heat Treated	Ultrasonic - usually safe: Steam - risky: Heat - may cause color change: Chemicals - careful
Ametrine	7	None	Ultrasonic - usually safe: Steam - risky: Heat - may cause color change
Apatite	5	None	No Chemicals, Steam or Ultrasonic Cleaners
Aquamarine	7.5-8	Usually Heat Treated	Normal Care (See Above)
Aventurine	7	None	Normal Care (See Above)
Blue Topaz	8	Usually Heat Treated or Irradiated	Ultrasonic - never: Steam - never: Heat - may cause color change
Chalcedony	6.5-7	Usually Heat Treated Or Dyed	Normal Care (See Above)
Chrome Diopside	5-6	None	No Chemicals. Sensitive to Extreme Temperature Change
Citrine	7	Usually Heat Treated	Normal Care (See Above): Steam - risky: Heat - may cause color change
Coral	3-4	Usually Dyed or Bleached	No Chemicals, Steam, Heat or Ultrasonic Cleaners
Diamond	10	None	Normal Care (See Above)
Diamond (Colored)	10	Usually Heat Treated Or Irradiated	Normal Care (See Above)
Emerald	7.5-8	Usually Oiled	No Chemicals, Steam, Heat or Ultrasonic Cleaning
Fluorite	4	Usually Heat Treated Or Irradiated	No Chemicals, Steam or Ultrasonic Cleaning
Garnet	7-7.5	None	Ultrasonic - usually safe: Steam - risky: Heat - may cause fracturing: No chemicals
Hessonite (Garnet)	7-7.5	None	Ultrasonic - usually safe: Steam - risky: Heat - may cause fracturing
Iolite	7-7.5	None	Ultrasonic - usually safe: Steam - risky: Heat - may cause fusing: No chemicals
Jade	6-6.5	Commonly Dyed- Heat Treated	Normal Care (See Above): Heat - may cause cracking
Jasper	6.5-7	Sometimes Dyed	Normal Care (See Above)
Kunzite	6.5-7	Usually Irradiated	Avoid Strong Light, Extreme Temperature Change - Handle With Care
Kyanite	4-7	None	No Steam, Ultrasonic Cleaning, Heat or Chemicals
Lapis Lazuli	5-6	Commonly Dyed and Coated With Paraffin	No Chemicals, Steam or Ultrasonic Cleaning
Malachite	3.5-4	Sometimes Wax or Epoxy Added	No Chemicals, Steam or Ultrasonic Cleaning
Moonstone	6-6.5	None	Never use: Ultrasonic, Steam, Heat or Chemicals
Morganite	7.5-8	Usually Heat Treated	Normal Care (See Above)
Mystic Topaz	8	Heat Treated	No Chemicals, Steam, Ultrasonic cleaning or Heat
Opal	5.5-6.5	Waxes and Oils May be Added	No Chemicals, Steam, Ultrasonic Cleaning or Extreme Heat
Pearl	2.5-4	Sometimes: Bleached, Dyed or Irradiated	No Chemicals, Ultrasonic Cleaning or Heat (Avoid Chemicals, Body Oil, Hairspray, Perfume, Make-up etc.)
Peridot	6.5-7	None	No Steam, Chemicals, Ultrasonic Cleaning or Heat
Pyrope (Garnet)	7-7.5	None	Ultrasonic - usually safe: Steam - risky Heat - may cause fracturing
Rhodochrosite	3.5-4	None	No Chemicals or Excessive Heat
Rhodolite (Garnet)	7-7.5	None	Ultrasonic - usually safe: Steam - risky Heat - may cause fracturing
Rhodonite	5.5-6	None	Normal Care (See Above)
Rubellite (Tourmaline)	7-7.5	Usually Heat Treated or Irradiated	Ultrasonic - risky: Steam - risky: Heat - may cause color change
Ruby	9	Usually Heat Treated	Normal Care (See Above)
Sapphire	9	Usually Heat Treated	Normal Care (See Above) Heat - may cause color change
Serpentine	2.5-5.5	Usually Dyed or Waxed	No Steam or Ultrasonic Cleaning
Smoky Quartz	7	Sometimes Heated or Irradiated	Ultrasonic - usually safe: Steam - risky: Heat - may cause color change and/or fracturing
Sodalite	5.5-6	None	No Chemicals, Steam or Ultrasonic Cleaning
Spessartine (Garnet)	7-7.5	None	Ultrasonic - usually safe: Steam - risky: Heat - may cause fracturing
Spinel	8	None	Normal Care (See Above)
Tanzanite	6.5-7	Heat Treated	No Steam, Ultrasonic Cleaning, Chemicals or Heat
Tiger's Eye	7	Usually Dyed, Bleached or Heated	Ultrasonic - never: Steam - risky: Heat - may cause fracturing
Topaz (Not Blue)	8	Heat Treated to Produce Colors	Ultrasonic - never: Steam - never: Heat - may cause fracturing
Tourmaline	7-7.5	Green and Blue Heated	Ultrasonic - risky: Steam - risky: Heat - may cause color change
Tsavorite (Garnet)	7-7.5	None	Ultrasonic - usually safe: Steam - Never: Heat - may cause fracturing: No Chemicals
Turquoise	5-6	Can Be Stabilized - Mixed With Plastic	No Chemicals, Steam or Ultrasonic Cleaning Heat will cause breaking
Variscite	4-5	None	No Chemicals, Steam or Ultrasonic Cleaning
Zircon	6.5-7	Usually Heat Treated	No Abrasives or Strong Light Heat may cause color change

Education

Diamond Buying Information

Buying a diamond can be a very exciting and memorable experience. Although we now have many 'fancy' cut diamonds, the most popular are still the seven basic shapes: round, oval, emerald, marquise, pear, princess and heart. Whatever the shape, we all want the biggest and best diamond that fits our budget. That is why it is so important to learn and understand how to determine the quality of a diamond. Using the 4 C's as a guide is an excellent way to assist you in purchasing a quality diamond. The 4 C's are:

CARAT WEIGHT:
The size/weight of a diamond is measured in carats. Diamond weight is sometimes referred to in 'points'. A one-carat diamond is equal to 100 points and a 3/4 carat diamond is 75 points.
COLOR:
Colorless or 'white' diamonds constitute the top of the scale. The less color, the more valuable (except for some of the natural fancy colors). On the scale they progress from colorless to yellowish brown, which is not easily seen with the naked eye. The more yellowish the diamond, the less light passes through it, giving it less sparkle.
(GIA Grading System) Color Scale:
- D, E, F: Colorless
- G, H, I, J: Near Colorless
- K, L, M: Faint Yellow or Faint Brown
- N, O, P, Q, R: Very Light Yellow or Very Light Brown
- S - Z: Light Yellow or Light Brown
CUT:
The shape, proportions, symmetry and finish determine the quality of the cut. The angle, shape, placement, number and proportions of the facets affect the reflection and dispersion of light. Diamond cutting is an art based on precise mathematical calculations. Most diamonds have 58 facets. The polish is also considered part of the cut.
CLARITY:
The Scale runs from Flawless to Imperfect. The characteristics of the internal (inclusions) and external (blemishes) flaws determine the clarity of the diamond. Also, the size, type and amount of flaws affect the clarity. Flawless diamonds are extremely rare. The grading scale is determined using magnification with a 10X Loupe.
(GIA Grading System) Clarity Scale:
- Flawless
- Internally Flawless
- VVS1 - VVS2: Very Very Slightly Included
- VS1 - VS2: Very Slightly Included
- SI1 - SI2: Slightly Included
- I1 - I3: Included (Inclusions can be seen with the naked eye)
These are some common types of inclusions and blemishes found in/on a diamond:
- Fracture - a crack on the surface
- Crystal - white spots on the inside
- Carbon - black spots inside
- Pinpoint - tiny spots inside
- Cloud - a group of pinpoints that may look like an inclusion
- Feather - an internal crack
- Bearding - small fractures on the edge
- Chip - a piece missing from the surface
- Scratch - a line or abrasion on the surface
- Natural - an unpolished part
- Extra Facets - additional surfaces made during cutting which can spoil the symmetry

Fluorescence

Fluorescence is the reaction of a diamond when put under UV light. If a diamond glows different colors under a UV light, it is best not to buy it. Diamonds with strong fluorescence are worth about 20% less than those that do not fluoresce.

Remember to care for your diamond properly, not only by having it cleaned professionally, but also by having the setting checked about once a year.